Breweries in Okinawa; Helios Brewery, Ishigaki Brewery, Nanto Brewery

Before I get into the beer, let me write a bit about how great Okinawa is. If you're in Japan, going to Okinawa really should be on everyones to do list... the sea is like... beer for your skin: It tingles, has a refreshing feeling, cools you off, is full of goodness and makes you feel good about life.

The wife and I spent time in Nanjo city (南城市), on the eastern side of the main island, next to Naha. Our main reason for going there was rumours I had heard about Kudaka island, which is an island of the gods with Shaman and rituals to quiet the anger of the gods... but no Ji-beer.

Not to worry; the airport saved me. I was delighted to find all the breweries that I had read about (on Good Beer and Country Boys) lined up in the fridge at the souvenier shop there. If you're looking for Ji-beer in Okinawa, You'll be wanting either:

• Helios Brewery and their mad 'Goya Dry' and Weizen
• Ishigaki Brewery and their varied range (Marine Beer above)
• Nanto Brewery who make the Nihede Beers (I chose the 'hard').

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Helios Brewery (ヘリオス酒造)
Factory Tours every day of the year at 10:30, 13:30, 15:00 and 16:30, except end of year holidays.

沖縄県名護市字許田405
Okinawa-ken, Nago-shi, Kyoda 405
Tel. 0120 41 3975
http://helios-syuzo.co.jp/docs/products/beer.php

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Ishigaki Brewery (石垣島ビール)
Open Monday to Saturday, however the factory is closed on Saturday and Sunday.

沖縄県石垣市新川2094-4
Okinawa-ken, Ishigaki-shi, Arakawa 2094-4
Tel. 0980 83 0202
http://ishigaki-beer.com/

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Nanto Brewery (南都酒造)
Open every day of the year. 9:00 - 18:30, April to October and 9:00 - 18:00 November to March.

沖縄県南城市玉城字前川1367
Okinawa-ken, Nanjyo City, Tamagusuku, Maekawa 1367
Tel. 098 948 1111
http://www.nantosyuzo.com/beer/

Zakkoku Koubou Micro Brewery, Ogawa, Saitama

My wife takes Noguchi Seitai classes up in Saitama once a month, a short walk from Musashi Ranzan Station. I heard from a friend of mine, Haruka Inomata (formerly CCO staff), that there was a great micro brewery the stop before that at Ogawa station called the Mugi Zakkoku Koubou Micro Brewery (麦雑穀工房 Micro Brewery). For my birthday my wife went there especially on her way home to send me a great 500ml six pack for my birthday.

Zakkoku Koubou's website says that they aim to be self supportive, and brew with 100% raw materials from organic farming/natural cultivation in their local area (有機栽培/自然力栽培の原料100％地域自給を目指す), and you can taste it in the beer. I highly recommend the Wiezen (photo right).

My wife also got the insider information that Zakkoku distribute to the following bars in Osaka, which I believe is a very strong sign of bars who care what they serve. You can get Zakkoku Koubou Beers at:
• Eni-brew (Nakamozu area)
• Kamikaze (Nishiohasi area)
• Q-brick (Hommachi area)

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Mugi Zakkoku Koubou Micro Brewery
11:00 - 21:00 (Sun till 20:00), Closed Mondays and Tuesdays

埼玉県小川町大塚1151-1
Saitama-ken, Ogawa-machi, Otsuka 1151-1
Tel. 0493 72 5673
http://www.craft-beer.net/zkm.html

Moku Moku Brewery, Mie

In addition to the short trip the family and I took to visit Beer Restaurant Sugakura in Koga City, Shiga, we also took a short drive over to Mie prefecture to vist Moku Moku farm, which was only a 45 minute drive away. As I often take the train, I rarely think of the two prefectures as connected directly, but the scenery around these mountainous areas is spectacular, especially before the harvest in early september.

Moku Moku Farm is a hands-on experience farm where you can take your kids to see the animals and get some tezukuri food to take home. Like most agricultural themed parks, they have a small brewery turning out a selection of beers. Though they only had four on offer while I was there, their history was proudly displayed on top of their fridge. Hopefully I'll be able to get an interview with them in the future.

I took one of each beer home, including the seasonal above, which was quite a nice concept beer called the Moonlight Ale (月の光のエール). Brewed to celebrate 150 years since the birth of Claude Debussy, and named after one of his most notes pieces, "Claire de Lune," the beer was fermented to the sounds of the work. Reccomended to drink by the moonlight. I didn't do that, but my god it was good.

I also took home their Red Larger, Haru no Urara (春のうらら, Which took a gold at the Beer Cup in 2006), and the Golden Pilsner. They came in a handy gift pack of 3.

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Moku Moku Farm 
9：30 - 20：00, Check ahead for farm holidays. Varies with season.

三重県伊賀市西湯舟3609
Mie-ken, Iga-shi, Nishiyuban 3609
Tel. 0595-43-0909
www.moku-moku.com

Ji-beer Restaurant Sugakura (寿賀蔵), Koka City, Shiga

How did I get to come to this place? My wife's family live in Kusatsu city in Shiga. In the Kintetsu department store there I found a beer called Kusatsu no Yado (草津の宿), made by a brewery called Nanakai (南海) which caught my attention because I never though there was a Ji-beer maker in the area. That got me into researching Ji-beers available in Shiga prefecture. When I was making the official Gee! Beer Map, I found a restaurant I'd never heard of, called Sugakura (寿賀蔵). You know, I never thought they would be the same place.

It's a 15 minute walk from JR Kibukawa station, which is on the Kusatsu Line (change at JR Kusatsu Station on the Biwako Line). I however, as a birthday boy, went in the luxury of the family taxi with my mother-in-law, bless her.
Traditionally a nihonshu brewer, Nankai is probably best known for their 'Biwako Iimichi Beer (びわこいいみちビール)', which come in clear and strong styles. They also had one more called 'Hototogisu' which is made with the local Asamiya-cha (or tea). I had a strong on tap for lunch and took the clear and the Hototogisu home. At the moment I don't feel really qualified to talk about the beers, not until I get an official tasters license. But I'm never disappointed with Ji-beer.

On a side note, the building itself is phenomenal. 蔵 (kura) in English is a warehouse with thick, impenetrable walls. Sugakura is essentially a fortress with its own brewery inside. I'm currently hounding them for an interview. As soon as I have something worth reading, let me know.

Ji-beer Restaurant Sugakura (寿賀蔵)
Shiga-ken, Koka-shi, Minakuchi-cho, Sandaiji 244  (滋賀県甲賀市水口町三大寺244)
Tel. 0748 63 2838
Hours: Weekdays 15:00 - 22:00, Weekends 11:00 - 22:00 (make a reservation or it may be closed or the menu may be limited).